A hearty Hyderabadi Mutton Dalcha is wonderful to serve on a cold winter day. I sought relief in this deliciously thick dish of mutton (goat) and chana dal during a recent cold front. I made it as much for its taste as for its ability to soothe the soul and evoke a sense of comfort and nourishment in bad weather.
The typical South Indian Hyderabadi Mutton Dalcha is made with bone-in mutton, masoor dal (red lentils) or chana dal (split Bengal gram) and sometimes vegetables such as lauki or bottle gourd. The quintessential Hyderabadi touch is the tamarind or lemon that adds the ‘khatta’ or sourness. The acid balances the rich flavors of the meat and the sweetness of the onions in the mutton dalcha. Dalcha has been cooked since the Middle Ages and when you taste its rich layers of flavor you realize that some serious culinary knowledge went into its creation.
Tips to Make a Great Hyderabadi Mutton Dalcha
1. Use mutton on the bone – brisket meat with a few nalli (marrow) bones are best for adding maximum meaty umami to your dish. Breast meat has fat and connective tissue that softens when cooked slowly. The fat, bone and tissue are storehouses of flavor and collagen and give you that deep, lingering savory flavor and aroma.
2. Be patient with the onions and meat and I promise your dalcha will be spectacular and finger licking good. Bhunoing or the technique of slow browning while continuously stirring and scraping the brown bits is essential for developing the flavor in a mutton dalcha. The Maillard reaction of sugars in the onions and the reduction of amino acids in the meat through cooking creates browning and those delicious roasted flavors. So don’t rush and take your time to bhuno the meat and onions until they are caramelly.
3. Low and slow is the mantra while cooking a dalcha. Use a heavy-bottomed pan or a frying pan and let the dalcha simmer slowly. The juicy texture of the meat and the creaminess of the dal are built up in this way. By the time it’s ready, the dal is infused with the savory richness of the meat and the warm scents of the whole spices.
I made my Hyderabadi Mutton Dalcha with chana dal (split Bengal gram), but you can also use masoor or red lentils, or a mix of both. Whatever our dalcha is, with warm tandoori rotis and thinly sliced red onions marinated in lemon juice. Dipping the roasted, ghee-smeared rotis into the hot, umami-laden dal can was pure, unadulterated, sensual pleasure. The biting cold outside made it extra special. January weather is a trial for me, but food like the Hyderabadi Mutton Dalcha brings joy to the surrounding gray gloom.
Hyderabadi Mutton Dalcha
Slowly cooked mutton and chana dal in a fragrant stew.
- 500 G mutton breast or breast meat
- 250 G chana dal (split Bengali gram)
- 1 teaspoon ginger paste
- 1½ teaspoon garlic pasta
- 2 fresh green chilies, cut halfway down
- 6 clove
- 4 green cardamom
- 2 1 inch pieces cinnamon
- 1 bay leaf (milk patta)
- 2 black cardamom
- 2 medium onions, chopped
- 1½ teaspoon coriander seeds, roasted and coarsely ground
- 1 teaspoon chili powder (cayenne pepper)
- ½ teaspoon turmeric powder
- 1 tablespoon Tamarind paste
- 2 tablespoon ghee
- 10 Curry leaves
- A few mint leaves, coarsely chopped
- A handful of fresh coriander, chopped
- Salty
- Water, if necessary
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Wash the chana dal and soak it for 1 hour, cook for 20 minutes with a pinch of turmeric powder and puree to a smooth consistency.
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Take a deep, heavy-bottomed pan or Dutch oven and heat 2 tablespoons of ghee over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the whole spices, fry for 15 seconds and add the onions. Keep the heat low and cook the onions until they are translucent.
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Now add the ginger and garlic paste, stir and cook for another 15 seconds, taking care not to let the paste burn. Add the meat, add the turmeric powder and mix well. Over a low to medium heat, continue bhuno or browning the meat, periodically scraping up the brown bits of masala that stick to the bottom of the pan. This takes about 10-12 minutes.
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Sprinkle the chilli powder and ground coriander over the mutton and cook for a further 10 seconds. Now season with salt and add the dal. Mix well, add 100 ml of warm water, cover and simmer for 40 minutes (depending on the quality of the meat) until the meat is completely cooked. You may need to add a little water while cooking if the dalcha becomes too thick and sticks to the bottom of the pan.
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Now add the tamarind paste and curry leaves and cook for another 5-10 minutes until the sharp, raw taste of the tamarind disappears. Add the chopped coriander and mint and turn off the heat. Serve piping hot with rice, jeera pulao, nan or roti.
